[megaimg]

I have a Dual 1200 300mhz module that has one of the control board damage apparently by a short. I was able to repair the short and waiting for cooper tape to fix the damage ground area. I need to get 3 capacitors that melted but I can not find the spec for them....try to remove one but not luck using my hot air up to 450.... Any input will be helpful or maybe someone has a damage CPU that I can get this module from....let me know! 
   

[weblacky]

I don’t have values for you, sorry. But if your having issues on desolder I’d suggest that you preheat the entire board to help remove the thermal sink. I’d try something like 210C. Warm the whole board and then attack the spot your desoldering.

Please remember that some components will be held with adhesive (to rack them in place before soldering). So some of the fight may be adhesive behind the part and not just solder.

If you’re saying you’re trying to remove one of the nearby intact caps, use two soldering irons, like tweezers, and remove them that way. SGI rework is the reason I invested in professional desoldering tweezer equipment. Most of the boards are incredibly thick and hot air is not your friend. So consider emulating tweezers just get two broad chisel tipped soldering irons at 700°F and use one at each end to melt and lift the capacitor off the board.

[megaimg]

I don’t have values for you, sorry. But if your having issues on desolder I’d suggest that you preheat the entire board to help remove the thermal sink.  I’d try something like 210C.  Warm the whole board and then attack the spot your desoldering. 

Please remember that some components will be held with adhesive (to rack them in place before soldering). So some of the fight may be adhesive behind the part and not just solder. 

If you’re saying you’re trying to remove one of the nearby intact caps, use two soldering irons, like tweezers, and remove them that way.  SGI rework is the reason I invested in professional desoldering tweezer equipment. Most of the boards are incredibly thick and hot air is not your friend. So consider emulating tweezers just get two broad chisel tipped soldering irons at 700°F and use one at each end to melt and lift the capacitor off the board.

Thanks!

[robespierre]

I can't make out exactly what is going on there. I see a strip of exposed copper, and some caps partially covered by a black thing.
It looks like you have your work cut out for you with heating and scraping. It can be much quicker to just dip-reflow the whole area in the meniscus of a solder pot, making components float away.

[megaimg]

I can't make out exactly what is going on there. I see a strip of exposed copper, and some caps partially covered by a black thing.
It looks like you have your work cut out for you with heating and scraping. It can be much quicker to just dip-reflow the whole area in the meniscus of a solder pot, making components float away.

The dark area (hard to see in the picture, is new solder mask after fixing the short), 3 capacitor ,melted... I need to repair the damage cooper ground and find the value of the 3 caps... another option if someone has a damage CPU that I can take this module.

[wroteafaq]

I don't get why you're focusing on the solder mask and ground (?) plane. The solder mask is there to keep bridges from forming during automated soldering, and there's nothing magical about a small copper plane area like this that can't be replaced by a piece of wire of suitable gauge. So you don't necessarily need either.

[Jacques]

Here you go.



Sorry, no discernible markings on those components you are after...

[Nichosen]

It looks like the caps bridges between the same two points.
So you shouldn’t need to fix those solder pads but rather just solder new ones in parallel with the existing ones.
I would recommend getting one of those glass fiber pens to clean and polish the scorched area.
Then you can see if any of the traces underneath are damaged.
These can be repaired by polishing off the lacquer and join them together with a super fine wire. Check so that this wire isn’t lacquered it self… that makes it super hard to solder
I’ve repaired two Amigas in kind of the same way.


Edit: typos

[wroteafaq]

Now that I can see a better photo, this doesn't seem hard at all. You're on the right track - pull one of the good caps, measure it, and replace the bad ones accordingly. I don't know what you're using for hot air, but I use a Leister that's pretty badass and it probably wouldn't give me trouble. Otherwise, it's just a job for gun/iron and good technique. Then, as I said, don't waste time trying to repair the mask or foil; just focus on getting good connections with a relatively heavy (e.g. AWG 16) piece of bus wire.

[megaimg]

Thanks everyone....I going to try again removing's one of does caps...it must be easy to repair...the short is fix after clean up...cover the expose layer with soldering mask and waiting for some copper tape to recreate the pads and damage connector layer...no to bad....

I just need the cap info to order the part... will see....thanks again!

Sound is the same module use on all processors...