[necron2600]

This may be a silly question, but how do you remove the PSU+bracket from the system? I can find 4 screws on the top of the power supply board, and then 2 screws behind it from the other side but it seems those screws may be removing the board from the bracket.

[jan-jaap]

This may be a silly question, but how do you remove the PSU+bracket from the system?  I can find 4 screws on the top of the power supply board, and then 2 screws behind it from the other side but it seems those screws may be removing the board from the bracket.

You don't touch the screws of the PSU PCB because they attach it to the bracket. You release the PSU PCB + bracket from the PI chassis by unscrewing 4 screws from the side of the E-module. You need to remove the E-module first. This is what the back side of the PSU bracket looks like (the side facing the divider with the E-module):



You can see the four screw holes, and if you look carefully you'll see a couple of hex holes where the mounting studs of the PCB are pressed into the bracket.

Removing the bracket + PSU from the IRIS chassis can be a little fiddly. You have the impression it's too big to remove. I assure you it fits, but only just.

NB: also visiible in this photo: the brown "jumper cable" to start this PSU outside the IRIS. This where the power switch normally connects.

[necron2600]

jan-jaap,

I have an electronics repair place working on mine with a power-one supply.
They have a question on a 2pin green/brown connector that does not appear to be addressed in your photos.. this 2pin green/brown is shown in your original PSU photo.. but seems missing in the final modified PSU. (twisted green/brown wire on the right side in the photo). What happens to that with the new power supply?

Thanks

[necron2600]

OK, they figured it out. The green/brown 2-pin connector is for the fan... and since the power-one power supply I am using has a built-in fan it is not used.
I should find out if this power-one power supply swap works or not next week.

[Noguri]

Dear PFC375 users,

I am about to make this big leap myself (my PSU unfortunately passed away...).
I have one question for you:
The AC-fail signal cable (the blue one), shall it be connected:
- into the J3/pin2 connector (PF)
- or into the J3/pin3 connnector (PWR good)?

The question seems obvious but I don't know whether there is a negative logic or not...
Thank you for your lights!

[RageX]

Does it still run that old version of Pro/E by the way? Old installs are very hard to find. It would be cool to see.

[backdash]

Hi, can somebody tell me what capacity this capacitor has? Mine is blown.
It could be 0.6uF at 250V, but I can't see it for sure.

[jan-jaap]

Does it still run that old version of Pro/E by the way?  Old installs are very hard to find.  It would be cool to see.

I received the system as a freebie but one of the conditions was that the disk was wiped and I didn't receive media or license either. I had to put in some effort to get the system in the first place because they had more or less started the company with that thing and they were a little sentimental about it.

---

Hi, can somebody tell me what capacity this capacitor has? Mine is blown.
It could be 0.6uF at 250V, but I can't see it for sure.

Looks like you were right.

For what it's worth, I would change all of these foil capacitors even they look OK. With age they suck up humidity and crack. And then they blow. You can find them in PowerOne PSUs from the PowerSeries as well and lots of them were cracked. You can still buy them from Farnell etc. Kemet makes them.

[robespierre]

For what it's worth, I would change all of these foil capacitors even they look OK. With age they suck up humidity and crack. And then they blow. You can find them in PowerOne PSUs from the PowerSeries as well and lots of them were cracked. You can still buy them from Farnell etc. Kemet makes them.

They aren't made of foil, but metallized paper, part of why they absorb moisture so readily. They are used to reduce electromagnetic interference (EMI) radiated or conducted out of the equipment; they aren't necessary for any aspect of the equipment's function. The "X2" is a rating class for capacitors used "across the line" (from live to neutral) as opposed to "Y2" class which are used between current carrying conductors and protective earth. Since the PME paper capacitors have such a bad reputation, they are not widely stocked and are rather expensive as a result. They can be replaced with polypropylene film types with the same dimensions and ratings.

Back in the 1980s, RIFA AB in Sweden advertised its capacitors as being safer from fire, shock, or transient damage compared to competitive types. The vulnerability to moisture was never mentioned.

[rutger]

And old thread but super useful info….

Thank you for this amazing work! I’m in a similar boat. Have recently acquired a truly stunning Personal Iris but blew the PSU in the first 10 minutes. Now embarking on the replacement project!

I found a model 4002 which has 24V instead of the -5 which is not used anyway. But a quick question  on the wiring. The PSU supports creating the -12V as well, is that achieved by just flipping the polarity on the terminals (connecting V3+ to V2- with a ground wire)?

Thx!