[CB_HK]

Alright, so here's where I'm at: neither power supply is working correctly and it appears that the donor PSU either had some issues of its own or there's something else afoot.

I went ahead and performed the table top tests exactly as you outlined, jan-jaap, and I found that neither backplane produced 300 VDC as they're supposed to (0 V on both), with either first stage rectifier. I checked each backplane with each first stage to eliminate the issue there. I also tested both first stage rectifiers and found no voltage coming from them (I checked at the output connector where the backplane attaches, also 0 V).

Additionally, I located some scorching on the donor backplane:
'

The reverse side showed scorching around the solder joints. I am a unsure of what would have caused this as it happened prior to me removing it from the donor PSU. My guess is that it occurred when I attempted to power it up the first time to ensure it was working properly (my previous post about the fan working and then suddenly not).

It seems that I have either gotten unlucky with this power supply or there's something else going on. I want to emphasize that I am paying very close attention to what you have written on your site in addition to what we have discussed thus far and feel that I have been taking the necessary steps along the way to avoid any sloppy work or accidentally shorting something due to a mistake.

I have ordered another PSU (I am not thrilled to be spending money on more parts, but I'm not going to get very far without even being able to start with a working power supply). My plan is to do nothing to it aside from hooking it up to 115 VAC and running the tests we've discussed. It's not getting taken apart (aside from the top cover) and it will not find its way into the Crimson until I know for certain that it is working. This one was advertised as a pull from a working piece of equipment, so we'll see. With any luck I may be able to fix whatever issue happened to the first donor board, but that will have to wait for now.

One other thought I've had is the DIP switches. While I don't think that they're necessarily going to be the issue here, I want to check with you and see if there's anything that you think might be off.

This is how the switches were set when I removed the original power supply:


I can't tell from the photos on your site if your DIP switch setting matches mine. To be fair I realize that it's not a Crimson you're working on, but from what you've mentioned it sounds like the 440 and Crimson likely share a few things in common and the power supply is identical from what we've discussed.

Do you see an issue with these settings? I can't imagine they'd be wrong from the factory. I haven't yet found any documentation regarding what these switches are for. I'm guessing it configures the board for the type of modules installed.

[CB_HK]

Success!

I suppose the adage, third time's a charm, is rather appropriate here.

I received the second donor PSU today and went about running it through every test jan-jaap mentioned. The first thing I did was power it up as it was. No component swaps. It started up and went to idle just fine. After that I bridged pins 10 and 11 and brought it up to run. Voltage checks on the terminals matched their listed outputs. I then removed the installed boards and checked the idle voltage across the backplane for 300 VDC, which was present. After that I swapped over the two Crimson boards and ran the same tests: idle and on. Both checks worked correctly and I had correct voltages.

Re-installation of the power supply was quick seeing as I'm rather familiar with the inside of the Crimson now. One other issue was to present itself, however. After turning on the rear breaker and hearing the power supply fan start and go into idle, I went ahead and flipped the power switch on the PS3. Nothing. I realized that there had to be an issue somewhere between the PS3 and the power supply. I had done extensive continuity checks while waiting on my second power supply to arrive so I felt confident that it wasn't the cabling. It turns out that the switch itself was to blame. Five minutes of Deoxit and working the switch back and forth and I managed to clean out whatever crud was causing an issue (I tested the switch function with my multimeter before putting it back into the PS3).

After cleaning the power switch and reassembling the PS3 I attempted another boot and everything started up with no issue.

I'm happy to say that this issue has been resolved! Thank you to everyone who assisted, whether in this thread or by PM. I absolutely could not have fixed this without everyone's assistance.

[dexter1]

That cruddy power switch i had as well, amazing that such a seemingly reliable component can clog up. I replaced mine with a similar switch.

And kudos for getting this system working again. This topic will be invaluable for many other Powerseries and Crimson users. Thanks Jan-Jaap for the buckets of help.