[Raion]

Yeah, I have most of them removed. I'll let you guys know when I pick this back up, a number of things came up:

Taxes, which have been filed
Girlfriend got sick with pneumonia for like a week, so I had to take off
other expenses.

Now I need to get most of my parts from mouser before I continue. If I have any issues with desoldering the last few I'll let you guys know.

[sunray]

Some tricks to replace old components.

The best way I would say is to do as follow, I have done this 1000 times since I work with this.

- From the solder side, add some fresh new lead on the platings for the "pins" of the components to be replaced.
- From the component side, cut the component i parts ie if its a resistor, IC or other component where you can see the pin, cut the legs close to the package. If its a CAP, cut in smal pieces

- Now, put the PCB in a vertical position and using one hand to heat the solder side of the pin, then with the other hand using a plier or similiar to pul the pin out towards the component side.

The clean the plating a hole with a https://www.chemtronics.com/soder-wick-rosin-2
- Solder the new component.

And important, dont heat the plating for to long which means you should use a good soldertool with enough power so it goes quick.

Should also add that this is usually safer than using a PRO vacum desolder tool, unless you are really good.

[jpbot]

While you're there you might consider replacing the molex chassis mount mini fit jr housing. I got the pin removal tool from mouser and I think I sampled the housing. Heat and age make the plastic push through latches brittle then the connector falls into the PSU. Even one side makes it not mate up.

Even with the tool removing the wires from the housing was a total PIA.

A side note, I was able to get all the plastic rivets out without damage. It's been a couple years now so I don't remember the details - heck I had it apart a year and nearly forgot where all the screws went.

[KiwiME]

I finished repairing my O2 PS after a failure, just replacing the 6 largest caps at the output end, 4 x 10,000uF and 2 x 2200uF.  As I expected, that was enough to bring it back to life and I upgraded the spare as well, took a max of about 2 hours each.
I had to purchase an 80W iron to tackle this as my normal 40W couldn't do it.  That, along with fresh solder, a solder sucker and a sewing needle to open up any reluctance holes was all that was needed.  The polarity is marked at each location and that needs to be triple-checked when installing the new ones.  Once done, I used a few dabs of silicone rubber to secure the caps together, although hot melt glue would keep it more original.
I'll post a photo once I get access to the hosting site.